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117×217 cm
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An entryway rug is the small rug laid inside the front door, usually between 80 x 150 cm (2'7" x 4'11") and 130 x 190 cm (4'3" x 6'3"), or a runner where the hall is narrow. It has to clear the door swing, take grit and wet soles, and be light enough to lift and shake out.
An entry is the hardest floor in a house and the smallest budget in the room. What follows is the geometry — door clearance, proportions, runner lengths — and what an entry floor actually does to a rug.
First, the door
Measure the gap under the door leaf before you measure the floor.
An interior door swings through an arc equal to its own width, usually 80 to 90 cm, and it passes over whatever is under it at a fixed height. Compare that gap against the pile height of the rug plus any pad beneath it. Pile depth across these collections runs from about 5 mm to over 25 mm: 5 mm passes under almost any door, 12 mm often does not, and anything deeper has to begin outside the door's arc.
Two ways out if the clearance is tight. Set the rug behind the arc, starting where the door's leading edge stops, which suits a hall long enough to take a runner. Or pick a flat-woven kilim, which has no pile at all — the pattern is made by the weft itself, so the whole rug is a few millimeters thick and reversible into the bargain.
What an entry floor actually takes
Grit, water and point loads, in that order of damage.
The sand and street grit carried in on shoe soles is abrasive. It works down between the tufts and cuts the yarn from below, which is why an entry rug wears out from the base rather than the surface, and why vacuuming it more often than the rest of the house is not fussiness. Water arrives with it in wet weather, and a rug left damp against a hard floor stays damp underneath. Then there are the point loads: a heel, a dropped bag, the leg of a hall bench in the same spot for years.
This is what should decide the ground color. Street grit is gray-brown, so it vanishes into a mottled or patterned field and shows plainly on a flat pale one. Cream and white belong in an entry where shoes come off at the door.
Sizes and proportion
The size is set by the floor that shows around the rug, not by the rug.
Leave 10 to 15 cm of bare floor along each long side. That strip is what tells the eye it is looking at a rug rather than at fitted carpet, and it is also what stops the rug from being kicked up against the skirting every time the door opens. Working backward from a typical 160 cm wide entry hall, that puts the rug at 130 cm wide or under.
The sizes that land in an entry, and what each one suits:
- 80 x 150 cm (2'7" x 4'11") — a narrow entry, or a landing strip just inside the door.
- 100 x 200 cm (3'3" x 6'7") — a long, narrow entry where the rug runs away from the door rather than across it.
- 120 x 180 cm (3'11" x 5'11") — an entry with a console table, where the rug should reach past the table's front legs.
- 130 x 190 cm (4'3" x 6'3") — a generous square entry, or one that doubles as the start of a corridor.
- 160 cm and 200 cm rounds (5'3" and 6'7" across) — an entry with a central light fitting or a round table, where a rectangle would fight the geometry.
Many of the pieces here are small hand-knotted rugs whose measurements are irregular by nature: 117 x 217, 124 x 185, 132 x 190 cm. Each rug's measured size is on its own page.
Runners, when the entry is a corridor
A runner is proportioned to the corridor, not to the door.
Leave 15 to 20 cm of floor at each end, so the runner never runs into the skirting board, and at least 10 cm of floor on each side along its length. A runner that touches the walls makes a corridor read narrower than it is, which is the opposite of what it is there to do. Runners are woven 80, 90 and 100 cm wide, in lengths from 300 up to 600 cm — long enough that most apartment corridors and stair landings can be done in one piece rather than two. Lengths and widths are set out at hallway runners, and the proportions are worked through at greater length in the hallway runner guide.
Which construction for an entry
| Construction | Thickness | Behavior in an entry | Trade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flat-woven kilim | No pile at all | Clears any door, lifts and shakes out in one hand, reversible | Thin underfoot, and the weave shows wear along a fold line |
| Hand-knotted wool, low pile | Low and dense | Dense enough to hold grit at the surface where a vacuum reaches it | The highest cost per square meter of the four |
| Loom-woven | Low to medium | Even pile, consistent sizes, a step below hand-knotting in price | Less character than a knotted piece |
| Machine-woven | Low to medium | Light, cheap to replace, repeatable if a second one is needed | No abrash, no irregularity, nothing that improves with age |
Compare them at handwoven kilims, hand-knotted rugs and machine-woven rugs. Where a maker states that a rug can go in a washing machine, it is listed under machine-washable rugs.
Keeping it in one place, and keeping it clean
On a hard floor, put a thin pad under it. A small rug in a doorway travels a few millimeters with every step until somebody kicks the corner of it, and a pad also lifts the rug enough for air to move underneath — worth having in the one room where wet shoes land.
Vacuum an entry rug more often than the rest of the house, with the beater bar off and in the direction of the pile, and take it outside to shake two or three times a year. Blot a spill with a dry cloth rather than rubbing it, since rubbing drives the liquid into the knot collar where it sets. Once or twice a year send it for professional washing, and read how a rug is cleaned before you try anything stronger at home.
Frequently asked questions
What size should an entryway rug be?
Most entries take something between 80 x 150 cm (2'7" x 4'11") and 130 x 190 cm (4'3" x 6'3"). The rule that matters more than the size is the border: leave 10 to 15 cm of bare floor along each long side so the rug reads as laid down rather than fitted.
How do I stop the rug from catching under the door?
Measure the gap between the bottom of the door leaf and the finished floor, then compare it with the pile height plus any pad. A pile of about 5 mm clears most interior doors; anything from 12 mm up often does not, in which case the rug has to start beyond the door's swing.
What is the right length for a runner in a hall?
One that leaves 15 to 20 cm of floor at each end, so the runner never touches the skirting. Across the width, keep at least 10 cm of floor showing on both sides, or the runner makes the corridor look narrower than it is.
Which construction holds up best in an entry?
A dense, low pile of any construction. Flat-woven kilims are the easiest to lift and shake out, machine-woven rugs are the cheapest to replace when a hall is hard on them, and a small hand-knotted wool rug takes grit better than its size suggests.
What color hides an entry's traffic best?
A mid to dark ground with a broken pattern. Grit that walks in from outside is gray-brown, so it disappears into a patterned or mottled field and shows plainly on a flat pale one. Cream and white belong in a hall with a shoes-off habit.
Can an entryway rug be washed?
Some of the rugs here are stated by their makers to be machine washable, and those are listed together. For everything else, vacuum regularly, blot spills rather than rubbing them, and send the rug for professional washing once or twice a year.
Should an entryway rug sit on a pad?
On a hard floor, yes. A thin pad keeps a small rug from traveling every time someone steps on the corner of it, and it lets air move under the pile, which matters most in the one room of the house where wet shoes land.
Related collections: hallway runners · handwoven kilims · round rugs · machine-washable rugs