Ranks of cypress trees on brick red, woven in Oushak
240×340 cm
Products
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240×340 cm
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Cypresses in ranks on green, Tencel® over a cotton base
90×490 cm
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Tree figures on open red, woven at the Oushak looms
200×290 cm
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Fringes tied in Oushak, the drawing borrowed from Yağcıbedir
200×300 cm
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Red, yellow and green held at pastel strength, joins left visible
200×290 cm
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A two-meter circle, Turkmen figures cut by its own edge
160×160 cm
Bestseller
Round Burgundy Afghan Turkmen Loom-Woven Rug, Nostalji Series
from 20.500 TL
≈ 8.000 TL/m² -
Panels stepping from red to earth, Tencel® over cotton
90×290 cm
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Anatolian motifs a half-tone under the beige, sharpening by lamp
300×390 cm
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Wool in the foundation as well, Oushak flowers in gray and mink
300×400 cm
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Oushak drawing sunk into pale gray, Tencel® face on cotton
300×390 cm
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Gold breaking up burgundy and navy, on old-style looms
160×230 cm
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Birds and flowers at twenty knots a square centimeter, in orange
274×357 cm
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Cream marbling with no repeat, dense viscose and acrylic
300×400 cm
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Cream, two meters across, with the fringes knotted by hand
200×200 cm
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Eight sizes, and the same faint moiré runs through all of them
160×230 cm
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Cotton right through, no pile, and the geometry mostly yellow
120×180 cm
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Sand beige, Gabbeh figures in four colors, colored fringes
230×330 cm
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Gabbeh figures set symmetrically, 100% wool, red into burgundy
200×300 cm
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Marble veins in cream and beige, machine-woven at 100 reed
300×400 cm
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Anthracite with no pattern at all, loom-woven in India
200×300 cm
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Reds and ochres packed in, still reading blue: 100% wool
150×217 cm
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Woven by women in Kütahya: a gray that moves when you do
300×320 cm
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Two green circles from the Oushak looms, 160 and 200 cm
200×200 cm
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Beige over mink: the fine kind of Oushak drawing
300×400 cm
Bestseller
Beige and Mink Oushak-Pattern Loom-Woven Wool Rug, Tempus Series
from 51.000 TL
≈ 8.600 TL/m²
A kitchen rug is a low-pile rug, most often a runner, laid on the strip of floor you stand on while you cook. This section gathers the pieces in the range that suit that job — loom-woven tencel and viscose, wool and cotton kilims, handwoven wool and low machine-woven pile — in runner and small rectangle sizes.
The full method is in the kitchen rug guide: what water and grease each do to a fiber, how to size a runner to a counter, how to lift a spill before it sets. This page covers what is actually in the section, how a kitchen floor divides into two zones that want different rugs, the sizes the house stocks, and the one measurement worth taking before anything else.
A kitchen floor is two zones, not one
The wet zone runs along the counter, the sink and the dishwasher; the dry zone is the table and the route through the room.
In the wet zone a rug is standing on, splashed and mopped around. That calls for a surface a spill sits on rather than sinks into, and for a weave thin enough to lift and carry out. In the dry zone — under the table, along the pass-through — the load is crumbs and chair legs rather than water, and a wool pile is not only allowed there but is the better floor to stand a chair on. Cooking oil sets the boundary between the two: it aerosolizes at the hob and settles for two or three meters, so anything within that arc is in the wet zone whether it ever sees a splash or not.
What this section is woven from
Four constructions, and they are not interchangeable.
- Loom-woven tencel, viscose and bamboo — the Zara and Taftan pieces. Low absorbency, a genuine sheen, and the store's most-sold runners. Blot rather than scrub, because regenerated cellulose is weak while wet. See tencel rugs.
- Handwoven wool — Anatolian, Afghan and Indian pieces, including Oushak and Yağcıbedir patterns. For the table end, not the hob end. See wool rugs.
- Flat-woven kilims in wool and cotton, including cicim work. No pile at all, reversible, and light enough to shake out. See handwoven kilims.
- Low machine-woven pile in viscose, woven at 100 reed. Even, thin, and the least expensive way to cover a galley floor.
A few rush flatweaves and one or two cowhide pieces sit at the edges of the section. Every product page carries its own fiber and its own care line.
How each fiber takes a kitchen
Water is survivable; grease is the fiber test.
Grease lands invisibly and holds dust, which is why a kitchen rug goes gray along its edges before it wears anywhere. Wool takes oil into the fiber, where it binds to the protein and stays until a hand washer removes it. Tencel, viscose and bamboo hold it nearer the surface, so a damp cloth reaches most of it, and bamboo in particular wants drying quickly or the pile yellows. Cotton absorbs everything evenly and gives most of it back in water — a small thin cotton flatweave is the only thing here that can simply be washed. Rush and jute brown at the edge of a wet patch, and the tidemark does not lift, so they belong in a dry corner or not in the room. See cotton rugs.
Sizes the house stocks
Runners first, because the work in a kitchen happens along a line rather than in the middle of a square.
| Where | Size | Note |
|---|---|---|
| In front of a counter or sink | 80 × 150 cm (2'7" × 4'11"), 80 × 300 cm (2'7" × 9'10") or 100 × 300 cm (3'3" × 9'10") | Match the length to the run of counter; keep 20–30 cm (8–12 in) clear of its face |
| Galley or narrow kitchen | 80 cm wide, cut to length | Must not narrow the route through the room |
| Under a kitchen table | 160 × 250 cm (5'3" × 8'2") | Chair legs stay on the rug when pulled back |
| Dining end of an open kitchen | 200 × 300 cm (6'7" × 9'10") | Ties the eating end to the living room |
| An awkward corner | Round, 2 m² and under | Also the easiest size to lift and carry out |
Two pieces often beat one: a runner at the counter and a rectangle under the table, in the same palette. The same widths and the same logic apply to hallway runners.
Measure the dishwasher door before you choose a color
Open it, look at the gap underneath, and treat that gap as your maximum pile height.
A dishwasher door drops nearly to the floor and an oven door is not much better. A rug thick enough to catch either is shoved forward every time the door swings, and the corner rucks for good. Low pile earns its place a second time here: crumbs and moisture settle into a long pile and have to be dug out, while a short, densely woven surface holds them on top where a vacuum takes them. A thick, high pile looks generous and is genuinely difficult to keep clean in a room with this much food and liquid landing on the floor.
Then deal with slip. Water, oil and flour on tile or laminate make a floor slicker than it looks, and a thin rug on it moves. A non-slip underlay cut two or three centimeters smaller than the rug on every side settles it, and it is worth doing in a room where people carry hot pans.
Color, and cleaning stated honestly
Take the color from the cabinets and the floor, and take the cleaning instruction from the product page.
Dark cabinets and a dark floor want a light runner, which opens the room; light cabinets carry gray, anthracite, brown, navy or the warm end — burgundy and red — which is where the house's own runner sales sit. Whatever the tone, a broken or patterned ground conceals a kitchen floor's daily reality better than either plain cream or plain black, both of which show everything.
On cleaning, the plain fact: nearly every rug in this section carries a professional-wash instruction from its maker, and the rush and hide pieces are dry-clean only. There is no machine-washable piece here. Between washes, blot a spill by pressing rather than rubbing, work from the outside of the mark inward, rinse the soap out with a second damp cloth and let the area dry fully. Grease and sugared tea are the two that do not come out at home. Full detail in how to clean a rug.
Frequently asked questions
What size rug goes in front of a kitchen counter?
A runner, 80 or 100 cm wide, in a length that matches the run of counter you stand at — 150, 200 or 300 cm. The width is what matters most, because anything deeper starts colliding with an oven door or the traffic line through the room.
How thick can a kitchen rug be?
Thinner than the gap under the lowest door in the room. Open the dishwasher and measure the clearance beneath it, then buy under that figure. A rug the door catches is pushed forward every time it swings, and the corner rucks permanently within weeks.
How far should a kitchen rug sit from the counter?
Leave 20 to 30 cm of bare floor between the rug edge and the face of the counter. That strip is where splashes from the sink and spatter from the hob land, and giving it up to the floor rather than to the rug is the cheapest thing you can do.
Can a wool rug go in a kitchen?
Under the table, yes; in front of the hob, no. Cooking oil aerosolizes and settles for two or three meters, and wool takes it into the fiber rather than onto it, so an oiled wool pile is a hand-washer's job rather than a cloth's.
Are these kitchen rugs machine washable?
No. Nearly every piece in this section carries a professional-wash instruction from its maker, and the rush and hide pieces are marked dry-clean only. Each product page states its own method, which is the line worth reading before the price.
Does a kilim work in a kitchen?
Well. A flat-woven kilim is weft-faced with no pile, so crumbs sit on top instead of working down. It is thin enough to clear a dishwasher door and light enough to carry outside and shake out with one hand.
What color hides a kitchen floor's daily reality?
A mid-tone, patterned or variegated ground. Plain cream shows grease marks and plain black shows dust, while a broken surface — a village pattern, a striped runner, anything carrying abrash — gives the eye somewhere else to stop.
Related collections: hallway runners · handwoven kilims · tencel rugs · cotton rugs